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- 2024
- October 2024 - Dr. Mitchell Schneider "Wonderland: Inter-generic Zygopetalums"
- September 2024 - Peter T. Lin " Mini-Catts: Delightful Cattleyas in Miniature"
- August 2024 - Gil Ho, MD "Orchids in Flight: Stanhopeas Around the World"
- July 3, 2024 - Pot Luck Dinner and Orchid Plant Exchange
- June 2024 - Tim Culbertson "Laelia purpurata, Varieties and Hybrids"
- May 2024 - Jose Carlos Lopez "The Hidden Life of Catasetinae"
- April 2024 - Ron Midgett "Kaleidoscope: Breeding with Cattleya Horace ‘Maxima’ AM/AOS"
- March 2024 - Jerry Spencer and Alex Nadzan - Repotting and Dividing Your Orchids
- Growing Orchids in the Middle of a Drought
- 2023
- May 2023 – Fred Clarke
- April 2023 – Gilberto Castro
- March 2023 – Culture Class
- February 2023 – Brandon Tam
- January 2023 – Carol Klonowski
- December 2023 - Holiday Dinner
- November 2023 - George Hatfield's Webinar on "Cultural Techniques for Growing Award-Winning Cymbidiums'
- October 2023 – Doug Overstreet
- September 2023 – Tim Culbertson
- August 2023 – Satomi Kasahara
- July 2023 – Peter Lin
- June 2023 – Jack Zhu
- January 2024 - Carol Beule
- 2022
- November 2022 – Arnold Gum
- October 2022 – Peter Lin
- September 2022 – Jerry Spencer and Ken Campbell
- August 2022 – Rene Van Rems
- July 2022 – Scott McGregor
- June 2022 – Fred Clarke
- May 2022 – Carlos Lopez
- April 2022 – Alex Nadzan & Bill Wong
- March 2022 – Tim Culbertson
- February 2022 – Alex Nadzan & Jerry Spencer
- January 2022 – Betty Kelepecz
- 2021
- November 2021 – Ron Kaufmann
- October 2021 – Peter T. Lin
- September 2021 – Tim Culbertson
- August 2021 – Carlos Lopez
- July 2021 – Fred Clarke
- June 2021 – WELCOME BACK!
- May 2021 – Gary Yong Gee (online presentation)
- April 2021 – Glen Decker (online presentation)
- March 2021 – David Haelterman (online presentation)
- February 2021 – Courtney Hackney (online presentation)
- January 2021 – Ron Parsons (online presentation)
- 2020
- November 2020 – Ken Jacobson (online presentation)
- October 2020 – Lou Jost (online presentation)
- September 2020 — Arnold Gum (online presentation)
- August 2020 – Fred Clarke (online presentation)
- July 2020 – Peter Lin (online presentation)
- March 2020 - Orchid Culture Meeting
- February 2020 – Orchid Culture Meeting
- January 2020 – Mary Gerritsen
- 2019
- 2018
- 2017
- 2016
- November 2016 General Meeting – Tom Biggart
- October 2016 General Meeting – James Rose
- September 2016 General Meeting – Marni Turkel
- August 2016 General Meeting – Harold Koopowitz
- July 2016 General Meeting – Ron Parsons
- April 2016 – Paul Tuskes
- March 2016 – Kay Klausing
- February 2016 – Ron Midgett
- January 2016 – Orchid Culture Class with Alex Nadzan and Jerry Spencer
- 2015
- November 2015 – Phyllis Prestia
- October 2015 – Satomi Kasahara
- September 2015 – Brandon Tam
- August 2015 – Alek Zaslawski
- July 2015 – David Brown
- June 2015 – Francisco Miranda
- May 2015 - Fred Clarke
- April 2015 – Peter Lin
- March 2015 – Peter Tobias
- February 2015 - Ron Parsons
- January 2015 – Kay Klausing
- 2014
- November 2014 – Arnold Gum
- October 2014 – Paul Tuskes
- September 2014 – Fall/Winter Culture Panel Discussion
- August 2014 – Phyllis Prestia
- July 2014 - James Rose
- June 2014 - Bruce Kidd
- May 2014 – Auction Volunteer Orientation Meeting
- April 2014 - Culture Class with Jerry Spencer & Merle Robboy
- March 2014 – Fred Clarke
- February 2014 - Sandra Tillisch Svoboda
- January 2014 - Dan Newman
- 2013
- 2012
- 2011
- 2010
- Newsletter
- To Do Lists
- Calendar
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December To Do List
General
- Short days and cold nights in December will slow down the metabolism of most of your orchids and initiate spikes on Fall/Winter blooming orchids. Watch them very carefully and cut back on water and fertilizer as cooler days and nights prevail.
- As watering needs of most plants decrease during the winter, be sure to leach your plants thoroughly. Extend your last watering to remove any accumulated salt built-up in the substrate and root system. Excess mineral built-up prevent plants from absorbing the fertilizer and nutrients they need and may lead to deficiencies during dryer conditions. The St. Augustine Orchid Society hosts a very good collection of articles on water quality.
- Protect outdoor orchids from winter rains. Keeping them on the dryer side will allow them to tolerate the cold winter nights we can experience in Southern California.
- Bring in cold-sensitive, warm growing orchids (phals, paphs, tolumnias, most vandas and some warm growing cattleyas such as violacea, dowiana and their hybrids) to protect them from night temperatures below 50o. An excellent article on ‘Cold Tolerance of Orchids’ by Sue Bottom of the St. Augustine Orchid Society can be found in their October Newsletter (pgs. 9-11)
- Cold tolerant orchids, including Odontoglossums, Miltonias, Pleurothallids, Masdevallias, and Draculas, will welcome the cooler weather and respond by initiating growth so continue to water and fertilize them during this period but also protect from freezing temps.
- Fall/winter blooming Cattleyas and Cymbidiums are now in bud or bloom. Provide adequate water and fertilizer, but do so in the mornings so plants dry out before nightfall. Stake cymbidium spikes to guide inflorescences for support of buds and blooms.
- Maintain good hygiene practices to minimize transmission of pests and viruses. Watch for fungus and bacterial rot in cold and wet weather.
- More details on specific genera can be found on the AOS website
Indoors and Greenhouse
- Carefully monitor greenhouse temperatures and check that circulating fans, automatic vents, humidifiers and heaters are in good working order.
- Continue to provide good air circulation for indoor plants to discourage diseases and pests such as mealy bugs and scale. Be sure to check all edges of the pot and neighboring pots. Pests, especially mealy bugs also can be found on the bottom of pots. Treat early to avoid spreading to other plants. More info on pests and diseases can be found at the AOS website.
- Cut back on watering and frequency of fertilizing in winter. Avoid over fertilizing to minimize root damage and growth of soft growths. Keep to one half to one fourth the recommended amount on the package.
Outdoors
- Continue to monitor and control snails, slugs and pests as cooler and wet weather will bring them out. They can do considerable damage to plants in short order.
- Try not to use water that is much cooler than the plants as their tissues can be shocked. Watering early in the day will facilitate that and allow plants to dry before nightfall in order to minimize bacterial and fungal diseases.
- Most Cymbidiums are now in spike or bloom so switch from high nitrogen fertilizer to one with higher phosphorus and potassium (Hi Bloom such as 10-30-20) to initiate and stimulate spike production. Stake spikes early to train them to grow upright while spikes are flexible. Find out more at the AOS culture pages for Cymbidiums.
- Members of the Catasetinae family (catasetums, clowesia, cycnoches, and mormodes) are entering their dormant period as evidenced by the yellowing and dropping of leaves. Note that some actually initiate spikes at the outset or during their dormant period. Cut back and eventually eliminate water and fertilizer until Spring as recommended by Fred Clarke on his website.
- Most Phalaenopsis are very sensitive to cold and should be inside your home or in a greenhouse by now and starting to spike. Be sure to stake spikes early to train them to grow upright for optimal display of blooms.
- For Phalaenopsis lovers, Orchid Digest Magazine devoted their most recent issue (Oct., Nov., Dec., 2013, Vol. 77-4) to this popular class, including topics on culture and temperature sensitivity and recent advances in Phalaenopsis breeding. The issue has some great articles and fantastic pictures and, for individuals who don’t subscribe, it can be ordered from the Orchid Digest website.