Welcome to the Palomar Orchid Society Website!

The Palomar Orchid Society, incorporated in December of 1965 was formed when a few people banded together to talk about orchids. We then grew and bloomed into the roughly 200-member group of orchid enthusiasts that we have today. We represent everything orchid in North San Diego County! Come and join us!!

The Palomar Orchid Society is a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting the understanding and cultivation of both hybrid and species orchids. We welcome members of all levels to join us for orchid fun and learning! Our mission is to promote interest in the appreciation of orchids and to provide an opportunity for their display and the exchange and dissemination of information relating to their culture.

January To Do List

General

  • Short days and cold nights in January will keep most of your orchids in a semi-dormant growth state but Fall/Winter blooming orchids will initiate spikes at this time.  Watch them very carefully and cut back on water and fertilizer as cooler days and nights prevail.
  • Protect your outdoor orchids from winter rains.  Keeping them on the dryer side will allow them to tolerate the cold winter nights we tend to experience in Southern California.  Water and fertilize sparingly during winter warm spells.
  • As watering and fertilizing practices diminish for winter, be sure to leach your plants thoroughly. Make your last thorough watering a leaching process in order to address 'salt built up' issues before diminished watering starts. Roots should readily be able to absorb the little water and nutrients that they may get during this period. Roots heavily encrusted with excess minerals are not able to absorb the ones they need and may develop deficiencies or even excess toxic levels during dryer conditions.
  • Keep cold-sensitive, warm growing orchids (phals, paphs, tolumnias, most vandas and warm growing dendrobiums and cattleyas such as violacea, dowiana and their hybrids) inside or in a greenhouse to protect them from night temperatures below 50°F. An excellent article on ‘Cold Tolerance of Orchids’ by Sue Bottom of the St. Augustine Orchid Society can be found in their October Newsletter (pgs. 9-11)
  • Cold loving orchids, including odontoglossums, miltonias, pleurothallids, masdevallias, draculas, will thrive in cool weather and respond by initiating growth so continue to water and fertilize them during this period but also protect from freezing temps. Take this opportunity to divide or repot them during their winter growth period to encourage new growth and avoid the stress of repotting during the warm season.
  • Winter blooming cattleyas and cymbidiums should be in bud or full bloom by now. Provide adequate water and fertilizer, but do so in the mornings so plants dry out before nightfall. Stake cymbidium spikes to guide inflorescences for support of buds and blooms.
  • Maintain good hygiene practices to minimize transmission of pests and viruses. Watch for fungus, bacterial rot and cold burn in cold and wet weather. Remove infected tissues and treat accordingly. More information on treating these disorders can be found on the AOS website.
  • More details on monthly checklist items for specific genera can be found on the AOS website

2013 Holiday Party

December To Do List

General

  • Short days and cold nights in December will slow down the metabolism of most of your orchids and initiate spikes on Fall/Winter blooming orchids.  Watch them very carefully and cut back on water and fertilizer as cooler days and nights prevail.
  • As watering needs of most plants decrease during the winter, be sure to leach your plants thoroughly. Extend your last watering to remove any accumulated salt built-up in the substrate and root system. Excess mineral built-up prevent plants from absorbing the fertilizer and nutrients they need and may lead to deficiencies during dryer conditions. The St. Augustine Orchid Society hosts a very good collection of articles on water quality.
  • Protect outdoor orchids from winter rains.  Keeping them on the dryer side will allow them to tolerate the cold winter nights we can experience in Southern California.
  • Bring in cold-sensitive, warm growing orchids (phals, paphs, tolumnias, most vandas and some warm growing cattleyas such as violacea, dowiana and their hybrids) to protect them from night temperatures below 50o. An excellent article on ‘Cold Tolerance of Orchids’ by Sue Bottom of the St. Augustine Orchid Society can be found in their October Newsletter (pgs. 9-11)
  • Cold tolerant orchids, including Odontoglossums, Miltonias, Pleurothallids, Masdevallias, and Draculas, will welcome the cooler weather and respond by initiating growth so continue to water and fertilize them during this period but also protect from freezing temps.
  • Fall/winter blooming Cattleyas and Cymbidiums are now in bud or bloom. Provide adequate water and fertilizer, but do so in the mornings so plants dry out before nightfall. Stake cymbidium spikes to guide inflorescences for support of buds and blooms.
  • Maintain good hygiene practices to minimize transmission of pests and viruses. Watch for fungus and bacterial rot in cold and wet weather.
  • More details on specific genera can be found on the AOS website

November 2013 General Meeting

October 2013 General Meeting

November To Do List

General

  • Shorter days and cooler nights in November will slow down the metabolism of your orchids and initiate spikes on Fall/Winter blooming orchids.  Watch them carefully and cut back on water and fertilizer as cooler days and nights prevail. Protect outdoor orchids from winter rains.
  • Bring in cold-sensitive, warm growing orchids to protect them from night temperatures below 50°. 
  • Fall/winter blooming cattleyas and cymbidiums are either in bloom or preparing for blooming. Provide adequate water and fertilizer but do so in the mornings so plants dry out before nightfall. Stake cymbidium spikes to guide inflorescences for support of buds and blooms.
  • Maintain good hygiene practices to minimize transmission of pests and viruses. Watch for fungus and bacterial rot as weather cools and wetter conditions prevail.
  • More details on specific genera can be found on the AOS website

November 2013 - Betty Kelepecz

Betty P. KelepeczBetty P. KelepeczGrowing Masdevallias

It is a pleasure to welcome back Betty Kelepezc to our society. Betty has been an orchid hobbyist in Southern California for over 30 years. She has grown orchids in Long Beach and Huntington Beach, and, since 2003, in the Point Loma area of San Diego. She started raising orchids in the early 1980’s when her husband and co-orchid grower Steve brought home a discarded cutting/keiki of a red Epidendrum he found in a trash bin in the alley beside their home in Long Beach. He planted the unimpressive and bloomless cutting on a moss-covered rock and confidently predicted that it would bloom beautifully in no time. When the Epidendrum actually did bloom and, in fact, never since has stopped blooming, the disbelieving Betty became an orchid enthusiast and both of their collection of orchids has since grown with the unwavering passion so often accompanying that first orchid discovery.    Read more »

Date: 
Wed, 11/06/2013 - 6:30pm - 9:30pm

October 2013 - Panel of Orchid Experts

The October meeting will feature our second culture session of the year that will concentrate on “Preparing your Orchids for Winter”.  Panel members will include Nico Goosens (Lico Orchids), Karl Batchman (Casa de las Orquideas), Harry Philips (Andy’s Orchids), and other expert growers.

Believe it or not, winter is approaching!  Although it does not seem so with all the warm weather we are having thus far.  But to your orchids, the waning sun, shorter days and cooler evenings are telling them that it is time to start slowing down to begin their winter’s rest.  To others it is telling them that the mating (flowering) season is fast around the corner.

Cymbidiums also will be send up their spikes of wonderful colors with rainbow hues.  Some dendrobiums will shrink if watered in winter, while others will welcome the chill to set next year's flowers.  The Black Orchid and related members (cycnoches and catasetums) will drop their leaves and go into dormancy.  Cold sensitive plants such as phalaenopsis, tolumnias, and most vandas will need to be brought in to avoid their demise.  Potted orchids will need care different than orchids on sticks.  Do you know how to care for your loved ones?

Join us on 2 October when your fellow orchid growers guide you into the chilly weather to come. Please bring your questions on winterizing your plants as well as any other orchid related questions you may have.

 

The opportunity table will be provided by the three commercial growers and should have a very nice collection of plants.

Date: 
Wed, 10/02/2013 - 6:30pm - 9:30pm

October To Do List

General

  • Shorter days and cooler nights in October will be the signal for orchids to slow down and prepare for winter’s rest.  Watch them carefully and cut back on water and fertilizer as cooler days and nights prevail. Protect outdoor orchids from the first fall and winter rains.
  • Fall blooming cattlyeas and cymbidiums are beginning their blooming season. Provide adequate water and fertilizer but do so in the mornings so plants dry out before nightfall.
  • Maintain good hygiene practices to minimize transmission of pests and viruses. Watch for fungus and bacterial rot as weather cools and wetter conditions prevail.
  • More details on specific genera can be found on the AOS website

September 2013 General Meeting